How long for pb blaster to work

Next day I didn't have time to work on the project but I squirted the fasteners again. Today finished the project and here's what happened. Tried to loosen the nuts on the carriage bolts that hold the wheelbarrow pan to the handles--no go.

Tapped the nuts and reapplied the BLaster. No go. Used more torque--stripped the carriage bolts, so now they turn.

Put ViseGrips on the end of the bolts, but still could not move the nuts. Used heat from a propane torch, then applied more Blaster after cooling down.

Still could not break the nuts free. Resorted to the final solution--the trusty angle grinder, and cut off the bolts. Replaced with new. End of story. After reading the above, can you blame me for calling PB Blaster snake oil? What reason can anyone provide for such a product to really work? Once you have rusted the metal, unless you do something to reduce the rust, or to dissolve it, why would you expect a change?

While I've never used the product mentioned, I have used penetrating oil. For some reason, folks seem to think that it will answer all the questions where removing old, rusted fasteners is concerned. That has never been my experience, but something as simple as the application of Coke phosphoric acid surely has. Yep, snake oil, and at its best. All it does is provide lubrication, nothing more. That's my opinion, and I'm sticking with it!

Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something. Any oil that will claim to loosen a rusted bolt is BS. That takes something to force it at minimum. I always got a big chuckle out the PB Blaster label showing how it will melt a foam cup, while other snake oils will not.

That works great if I were into melting foam cups. There are plenty of things on the market for doing that. How that relates as proof to loosening a rusted fastener is a stretch of the largest illusion of imagination. One claim that made reasonable sense was a product called Kroil. It is a creeping oil. Their only claim was to penetrate into the smallest spaces to soften the rust to allow the parts to become free. I had tried it and it did not work either. To me, that would indicate there is a limit to what deterioration these snake oils can perform their amazing feats of separation.

Rust that is impenetrable should be gaged by the user. That only takes a few bolts to develope a learning curve for fasteners that will never come apart without drastic measures. Now, is that the fault of the oils claim, the rust or the experienced word of another user, when all one can do is give it a speculative trial without miracle expectations, but a little prayer certainly wouldn't hurt either.

In one instance I had broken the heads off bolts stuck in blind holes. I found that once the head was gone and the fastened part removed, I could rotate the oil soaked bolt stud sticking out back and forth ever so slightly until l seen greater and greater movement. Going for the gusto would surely destroy the only stud I had to grip on. I was succesful on all 7 of the darn things. At the time I had no access to drill them out or use helicoils.

In the terms of getting it done and on to something else, I'm all in favor of whatever it takes within my patience zone and the value of the part I'd be trying to save. As a positive word toward these oils. They will prevent some threads from galling when rusted, better than turning them dry.

As well as any thin oil will. The thing is, there ain't no one millionith of an inch for any penetrating oil to enter because the rust has closed up every possible opening. Howsomever, if you can get the nut or bolt to move the tinyest amount and keep working it back and forth, the Kroil will indeed work itself down in there and ease the removal operation. Kroil will positivly prevent galling on fasteners that have been heated in use. Case in point was bolts holding a vacuum crucible lid in place at Consolidated Aluminum.

I started to remove the bolts and some of them promptly galled, but an application of Kroil allowed removal and galling disappeared. No penetrating oil is going to enter a space which does not in fact exist despite the wonderful results espoused by the manufactuer.

BTW: Gasoline will melt the styrofoam cups almost instantly and it sure ain't a penetrating oil. Unka Been there done that and know those oily guys will lie to you Jesse. I have had good results with PBBlaster, as opposed to other things, but I don't bother to listen about rusty stuff. Maybe it will work and maybe not is my experience on that. Harold, you are right, what they all do is lubricate. And that is the catch. They all work by using a solvent or other material of low surface tension to penetrate into the crevices and carry oil in.

That oil then does the loosening. It is availableon the spot in the joint, ready to be wiped into the tiny space between surfaces that want to gall, to lubricate the particles of rust, etc.

The foam cup thing is stupid, but it does prove there is some thin solvent in it. But, if getting lube in isn't gonna help, then none of them can help. And anything that will actually chemically attack rust is not likely to be carried in by a solvent other than water, which won't go in.

I have had good results on galling, on removing plain tight fits, but never tried it on rust. In most cases rust has welded everything into a lump anyhow, if there really is rust in the space between pieces. WD doesn't work, because it has virtually no oil in it The kero or whatever in it seems to be a cutting agent, not a lube. Haven't tried Kroil. I have also had reasonable results with turps and oil, mixed to a watery liquid. Stinks for about two months though.

I'm old enough to know better, but I still expected to turn that rusted nut with my fingers after two days of soaking. Be it, oil, grease, or the brake fluid ; brake cleaner removes all and that too effectively.

Brake cleaner is generally available in two versions, chlorinated and the non-chlorinated. The chlorinated cleaner is a complete no-no as it is an aggressive chemical blend that can harm one's health. In and of itself, brake fluid will not corrode metal , otherwise, your brake cylinders would be a rock of rust in no time. The problem is that it is hygroscopic and holds moisture, this moisture, in turn, corrodes metal.

Brake cleaner or gun scrubber with acetone will remove blueing and melt polymers. Not good for anodized surface either.

Acetone, chlorine based degreasers, brake fluid and other chemicals really should not be used with bare skin or without breathing protection.

Our penetrating lubricant also leaves behind a protective layer and helps prevent rust and corrosion from re-forming. Take a wire brush to it to knock as much of the rust off as possible. Blow the caliper clean of debris with some high pressure air. Spray the caliper with hi-temp primer. Does PB Blaster dissolve rust? Category: automotive motorcycles. It is uniquely formulated to use capillary action to creep up, around, and into hard to reach places to quickly break free surface tension rust and corrosion.

The lubricating oil eliminates rust , corrosion , sticking, and squeaking problems. How long does it take penetrating oil to work? Can I use wd40 as penetrating oil? Which is better wd40 or PB Blaster? What is the best rust remover? What is the best penetrating oil? Top 10 Best Penetrating Oil. Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil. How long should I leave PB Blaster on? Is PB Blaster harmful? How do I uninstall PB Blaster? What is the best rust penetrant? Can brake fluid be used as penetrating oil?

Is brake fluid the same as brake cleaner? Does brake fluid damage metal? Can you use brake fluid to clean a gun? Is wd40 a rust penetrant?